Last summer I set out on a project to conquer my fear of fly fronts on trousers, making a pair of trousers and shorts with a button front as I wanted to experiment. While I was pleased with the outcome and took them away on holiday with me, I decided that my trousers were a bit floppy and loose so I decided to try again with a firmer fabric and make it slightly more fitted. I had some khaki coloured twill leftover from making a jacket for The Other Half and I thought that it was a bit firmer so decided to give it a go with that.

I used the Pattern Lab basic trouser block and added some patch pockets on the front. I wanted just a bit more shape and definition in the silhouette of the trousers. The trousers were constructed pretty much the same way as I had before, first closing the back darts and applying the patch pockets. Then moving to the front.

I made the button fly by cutting the left front with the fly attached but on the right side the fly shield is cut separately as two pieces which are joined to form a double layer into which Join the rear pieces at the back rise

Make the fly pieces and attach a double fly to the right front which will hold the buttons. Press the left front fly into position. Join the front pieces at the front rise.

Attach the front patch pockets before joining the front and back trousers together Making sure to catch the sides of the pockets in the side seam

I Joined the sides first to ensure the pocket was inserted correctly and then joined the inside leg matching the crotch and notches along the leg.

The beautifully curved waistband is perfect for my very curvy shape. I attached this to the outside of the trousers with the right sides together matching the seams and making sure to sandwich the top of the front patch pocket in between the waist under the trousers.

Finally, I finished the fly with topstitching and made the buttonholes before attaching antique metal popper buttons with the Prym pliers.

Okay, now I feel happy with the construction of these button flies now, but I wasn’t totally happy with the finished trousers. In this stiffer fabric, they are a bit close and now, rather than being too floppy, I don’t think there is enough drape and they look rigid. So I’m still not satisfied with the shape or the length for that matter. It’s one of those things that I have an idea in my head and it’s just not matching that in the flesh and annoyingly I don’t know exactly what it is that’s not working. I think I may have to go and try on some RTW to see if I can pin down what I want from these pants.

This project has me feeling like Goldilocks, too soft/too stiff; too long/too short.

Do your projects ever go Goldilocks on you?

Thanks for dropping by,